McQueen Spring 2027: What London Changed in Seán McGirr’s Vision

Alexander McQueen returned to London on 20 September for its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, presented in the Undercroft of Lincoln’s Inn Chapel. For Seán McGirr, the return was more than a change of fashion-week address: London became the framework through which he approached the house’s history on his own terms.

The collection brought together two sides of the city. Savile Row tailoring appeared alongside references to London’s underground rave culture, while smoked tulle, lacquered satin, sheer fabrics and metal harnesses created tension between formal construction and nocturnal subculture.

McGirr also reconnected the house with two long-standing London collaborators. Huntsman produced three bespoke menswear silhouettes in heritage British wool, with elongated proportions, pronounced shoulders and high, narrow waists. The Savile Row tailor had previously worked with McQueen in 2002 and 2012.

Jeweller Shaun Leane returned with handcrafted body adornment in recycled silver. The collection also brought two of his earlier McQueen collaborations back into the visual conversation: headpieces originally created for the Autumn/Winter 1998 and Autumn/Winter 2004 collections.

The references were not limited to the house archive. McGirr drew on London’s religious and artistic imagery, including Piero della Francesca’s The Baptism of Christ, alongside the visual language of rave culture. The result positioned London itself as a meeting point between formal tradition and subcultural experimentation.

For McGirr, the collection therefore establishes a relationship with McQueen’s history through collaborators, techniques and London references, rather than through direct reproduction of archival looks.