At the biggest watch event of the fall, held in Geneva from September 2 to 6, visitors were treated to a mix of established industry icons and impressive newcomers.

 Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter

This is not Bvlgari's first collaboration with an independent watchmaker. Last year saw the debut of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti, but this latest project brings together two legendary yet fundamentally different designs in remarkable harmony. The ultrathin 9.7 mm Octo Finissimo case houses Vianney Halter's signature Dual Time display, split between two separate dials reminiscent of the celebrated Opus 3. Inside is the new in-house caliber BVL 200 with a micro-rotor and a 60-hour power reserve. Production is limited to 30 titanium pieces, with an additional 15 pieces in pink gold.

 Gerald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian

The revived Gerald Genta manufacture continues to speak exclusively to discerning collectors. Unlike last year's version featuring an onyx dial, this edition stands out thanks to its striking golden obsidian dial, which contrasts beautifully with the 40 mm yellow-gold case. Inside beats the GG-002 caliber equipped with an exceptionally resonant minute repeater.

 HYT Conical Tourbillon Midnight Blue

The world's only brand producing watches with a liquid hour indication has unveiled its most mechanically ambitious creation to date – a watch in which virtually everything rotates.

At the center of the dial sits a conical tourbillon completing one revolution every 30 seconds. Surrounding it is a carriage carrying three spheres that rotates once per minute, while each sphere spins independently at 4, 5, and 6 revolutions per minute respectively. The watch is available in black DLC-coated titanium, limited to 66 pieces, or in pink gold with a production run of just eight.

 L. Leroy Vox Temporis

This unique timepiece was originally created by L. Leroy in 2023 for the final Only Watch charity auction. It was itself inspired by a historical tact watch created by Charles Leroy in 1810 for the Prince Emil Maximilian Leopold August of Hesse. Its defining feature is that the dial – not the hand – rotates to indicate the time. The dial is engraved using the flinqué technique, while the 43 mm case houses the in-house L601SQR caliber featuring a minute repeater and a flying tourbillon visible through the sapphire caseback.

 Louis Erard Marqueterie de Paille

Louis Erard continues moving away from its signature Regulator display in favor of pure decorative craftsmanship. This time the brand brings straw marquetry to the wrist in a limited edition of just 25 watches. Portuguese artist Bernardo d'Orey transforms rye straw into an abstract dial composed of 28 individually positioned elements. The varying directions of the fibers create an ever-changing play of color, texture, and light, making every dial completely unique.

 MB&F M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese

MB&F proves that Switzerland's rich watchmaking heritage can still inspire fresh ideas with the third release in its affordable M.A.D. series, developed together with 82-year-old Vincent Calabrese, one of the founding members of the AHCI. The M.A.D.3 clearly references Calabrese's iconic Baladin from 1990 through its combination of a jumping hour and a rotating minute disc. Powered by the reliable La Joux-Perret G111 caliber, the watch is priced at just CHF 2,900. It comes in two versions: bright pink for members of the MB&F Tribe and their friends, while the blue edition will be allocated through a public lottery.

 Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition

Oris introduces the third Disney's The Muppets character to join its collection – the one and only Great Gonzo. Its skeletonized dial shimmers through fiery shades ranging from bright orange and crimson to violet and blue. The watch is powered by the in-house Oris Caliber 115, offering manual winding and a ten-day power reserve, while the power-reserve indicator takes the playful form of a red chili pepper.

 Stollenwurm Series 2 Tarot Métiers d'Art

Founded in Le Locle in 2024, Stollenwurm takes its name from a mythical Swiss dragon—a fire-breathing serpent with the head of a cat. Each collection follows its own symbolic narrative. While the first series looked to the constellations, the second explores the twenty-two Major Arcana of the Tarot, long regarded as a symbolic journey through life. Every card is represented by five watches, each featuring a hand-painted enamel dial. The only numeral on the dial is the card's own number, positioned at the corresponding hour marker. Through the sapphire caseback, the proprietary WU-01-01 caliber can be admired, developed and manufactured for Stollenwurm together with the brand's partners in Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds.

 Trilobe Château Trente-Deux

The French independent brand has introduced a new version of its Trente-Deux sports watch. The name refers to the address of the company's atelier on Avenue de l'Opéra in Paris. Powered by the in-house X-Nihilo caliber, the watch features a dial inspired by the rich color of Burgundy wine. The edition is limited to 100 pieces, each accompanied by a specially selected bottle of Grand Cru Burgundy.

 Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport

Zenith's latest flagship from Le Locle is essentially "a chronograph without a chronograph." At its heart beats the legendary high-frequency 5 Hz El Primero movement. By removing the chronograph pushers, the 40 mm steel case achieves a cleaner, more balanced profile. The watch is offered with black, white, or brown dials featuring Zenith's new shark-tooth minute track inspired by historical manufacture’s references. The El Primero 3620 CS caliber has a silicon escapement, stop-second function for precise time-setting, and delivers a 60-hour power reserve.

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Written by
IP Staff