UPCYCLING THEME IN MAISON MARGIELA COLLECTION
If upcycling in the ready-to-wear category is slowly becoming normality, it is still a big breakthrough for couture. While studying at Central Saint Martins, John Galliano stormed flea markets and vintage stores to turn his finds into a grand graduation collection dedicated to the French Revolution. Who would have thought that in his creative leadership of Maison Margiela, he would bring the principles of upcycling to haute couture. In The Memory Of... With John Galliano, his podcast, the designer shares the process of sending his team on a scavenger hunt to thrift stores. Some old dresses were cut into pieces, from which new outfits were assembled, the sleeves of others turned into a hybrid of a blouse and a scarf, and sheets and curtains became elegant capes. Ultimately, things, albeit remade from old clothes, do not contradict the concept of haute couture in any way - this is colossal manual labor and the highest craftsmanship.
PATCH TECHNIQUE IN VIKTOR & ROLF COLLECTION
Another nice touch to upcycling during the week was added by Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren. There were not enough old samples of fabrics for a full-fledged collection, but there was room for maneuvers in patchwork technique. It was from the remnants of materials for the past collections of Viktor & Rolf that the new one was born: multi-tiered floor-length dresses; their mini versions with large collars; and sundresses from three dozen materials.
COURTYARD OF ABBAYE D'AUBAZINE AT CHANEL SHOW
Gabrielle Chanel was 11 when her mother died - then her father sent her to an orphanage at Abbaye d'Aubazine. The Grand Palais turned into the courtyard of this very monastery on the eve of the couture show. Virginie Viard's collection dedicated to Chanel's youth turned out to be somewhat teenage: tucked-up socks, snow-white stockings, black-and-white sets with skirts just above the knee, white collars that went with tight jackets, and patent leather shoes with a small steady heel.
FAREWELL SHOW FROM JEAN PAUL GAUTIER
The most grandiose event of this year's Haute Couture Week was the farewell show of Jean-Paul Gaultier: the designer celebrated half a century of work in fashion, wrapping up the brand and soon to announce a new project. What was happening at the Théâtre du Châtelet was more like a theatrical performance than a fashion show. Although the performance imitated a funeral, it turned out to be very uplifting. The collection consisted of reworked archive models that are iconic for the Gaultier brand: tapered bras, a marine stripe, lots of leather and lace, various variations on the underwear, various corsets and tie suits, a dress made of nylon tights, pea coats and berets, as well as things that quoted the famous Tattoo Collection of 1994 and ironic haute couture like a sponge dress on Anna Cleveland - about 180 looks in total. The casting was also very impressive: Dita Von Teese and Laetitia Casta, whom Gautier noticed when she was fifteen, the Hadid sisters (Gigi and Bella), Irina Shayk and Coco Rocha appeared on the stage, dancing Irish tap dancing, as in the 2007 show.
HUGE HATS AT THE GIVENCHY SHOW
You can have the rare craft techniques, hand-embroidered and painted flowers with feather decor on your pieces, but what really becomes a sensation depends on how instragrammable your collection is. In the case of this year's week, the Givenchy couture show has become this very social media sensation. Kaia Gerber wore a lace hat with a giant brim that could fit several people underneath. However, other looks also deserve attention, like suits with applications in the form of gypsophilas, dresses with complex draperies, and jacket dresses that expand downwards, like inverted flower buds.
NEW SILHOUETTE FROM VALENTINO
The first thing that catches your eye in the new Valentino collection is a dramatically changed silhouette: corset dresses, trousers, tops gathered with a large bow at the waist, suits. Only Pier Paolo Piccioli's love for romanticism and unusual color combinations remained the same - this time purple trousers came with a scarlet belt, and several shades of green echoed on the skirts. Some looks were complemented by bright pink, red or black long gloves, other things were accompanied by huge bright earrings that reached the collarbones.
SECOND COUTURE COLLECTION BY DANIEL ROSEBERRY FOR SCHIAPARELLI
Last spring, Schiaparelli was led by Daniel Roseberry, who previously worked as an art director for Thom Browne. At the Paris Fashion Week, the designer showed his second couture collection for Schiaparelli, which turned out to be very cheerful. It included tuxedos with collars that turn into hoods, a trench coat with the finest pleats, leather dresses with ruffles and suits with massive gold-plated jewelry.
